A-Joint Assembly Methods
In a simple Plain Jane (PJ) cue, the forearm & handle are usually joined together by turning a tenon on one part and inserting it into a register bored into the other part. This is usually strengthened by the addition of a metal screw. Or, the tenon itself and the mating part can be threaded, thereby eliminating any metal in the joint.
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This is the most pure & simple A-Joint style you can build. The handle tenon is threaded into the ebony forearm. The tenon has a register diameter/shoulder to accurately locate the tenon in the forearm & maintain concentricity. And, there is enough room on the tenon to install some trim rings. The forearm is threaded internally to match.
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This works fine when you're building a PJ or a cue with floating CNC points but if I'm assembling a half splice forearm with V-grooved points, I like to tie things in a little better. Over the years I've used many different methods and have had good luck with all of them. One feature I try to employ at all times is a collar that slides over the base of the points to prevent the bottom of the forearm from splitting. It has never happened, even when I don't use a collar but it's something that always makes me nervous & if I can do something to make me feel better, I do it.
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Here's a very common method using a simple buzz ring to maintain a gap between the faces of the forearm & handle. In this case, rather than stacking all the trim rings on a tenon, I make a "master" ring that has a register diameter on it. I bore the other trim rings out so they can slide onto the master, making the assembly more like a single ring rather than 5 individual pieces. Very solid & hits very well.
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In this situation, a wrap will cover the phenolic sleeve so it can be longer for a little more support. My handle was too short to extend it into the forearm so I made a tenon to fit both. The brass screw was chosen over aluminum to help reach the target weight & balance.
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This is very similar to the above scenario but I used different sizes & lengths to see if it made any difference.
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And yet another variation using a phenolic sleeve to protect the 4 short & 4 long points. The internal tenon is also phenolic for a little extra strength. It might be hard to see but I live tool my threads & try to make the holes no deeper than necessary. I mock up the assembly while I'm machining it to keep voids to a minimum.
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This is a sample of some of the methods I've used over the years. There are others but I don't have pictures of them. Yet. The surprising thing is that all of these methods work well if they are done accurately & you don't get sloppy. A little extra time spent keeping everything "tight" pays off when the cue spins straight & hits solid. For example, after assembly, I rarely see a cue with more than .003" or .004" runout at the A joint. That's a good indication that the job was done correctly. See HERE for a short video showing the runout in the cue shown above.