This is a Techno-Isel CNC router that
has served me well for 10 years. Although the initial cost was steep, it
has paid for itself many times over. I debated getting a smaller table to
cut costs but the ability to mount multiple workstations convinced me to go big.
It was the right decision. I now have several separate stations in place.
Each is keyed in location so that even if I have to remove one, replacing it
accurately is a simple matter. The large open area on the left permits me
to do oddball jobs such as signs, calendar frames, kitchen doors, corian
countertop inlays, deer head mounting frames and even some rapid prototyping.
All without disturbing the bread & butter fixturing I rely on. I have a
few different routers I use, depending on the accuracy needed & the shank size
required. The router shown in the photos is a highly accurate 3/4 hp
router that I do my inlays with. I've tried Porter Cable, Makita & DeWalt
routers but their bearings just aren't as tight & the inlay fits vary too much
for my taste. However, they are fine for sign work, shaft work, etc.
The first pic shows the layout I have now (the second pic
is just a closer view). As you can see, the Indexing jig on the right is
set up so that the centerline is level & parallel to the table. This works
well when cutting grooves for trim ring blanks, cutting
V-grooves in forearms, etc. The
tailstock can be accurately moved over a large range by sliding the keyed
dovetail if needed.
The next Indexing jig (2nd from the right) is designed for installing inlays in
an assembled butt section of a cue. This jig is set up so that the top
surface of the cue is level & parallel to the table. This allows me to
maintain a consistent inlay depth no matter how long the inlay is. I have
installed some inlays which were 14" long. On a cue with a standard taper
(.840 at joint to 1.280 at butt), this amounts to a .106" difference which must
be compensated for. Many of the CNC machines made for cuemakers do
not have the option to easily adjust the height of the tailstock & therefore cut
the inlay pockets at a consistent depth. This can be compensated for in
programming but it makes the job more difficult than it needs to be.
Just a couple more views from a different angle.
UPDATED WORK STATION!!
I found a heavier tailstock that is the same height as the Indexer.
When used with a longer keyed base it gives me a much more solid setup with even
more versatility.
There is also a simple jig I use for squaring my point blanks. Instead of belt sanding the sides square (if you're lucky) to one another, I insert them into the jig and machine the sides flat & square. It's a no-brainer. Blanks come out flat, square & parallel within a thou or two. Every time.
The fixture on the left is my shaft turning station. I can program it for any taper I want, adjust for oddball joint sizes (Meucci, McDermott, Mali, etc) and program roughing & finishing feed rates to save time. I tried a table saw shaft machine & if I didn't have the CNC, the table saw setup would be the way to go. But there is just no comparison with the CNC. I can rough a 1" square shaft blank down to .625" diameter (ferrule end) with the proper taper in about 5 minutes. From that point, I take a .025" cut every month or so until I get to .525" diameter. Then I install any trim rings or joint inserts, wait another month and cut to final size. Obviously, any blanks showing a tendency to warp are discarded. If requested, a blank will be dipped in Nelsonite when it is .550" diameter. Personally, I don't see any advantage to using Nelsonite. It does not guarantee freedom from warpage but it will discolor the wood somewhat & often reminds you of its distinctive smell every time you open your cue case.
In the front of the machine is the Auto-Cue Building Orfice. Until now, many cuemakers were reluctant to admit to its existence. We didn't want customers to realize just how easy it was to build a cue with a CNC machine. Unfortunately, some highly educated & properly self-righteous individuals are letting our secret out in the pool & billiard forums & newsgroups. Let me be the first to confess: It's true. Today's cuemakers do not have the skills of the craftsmen of yore. We are simply button pushers..."cycle start" men. The technology of today makes skill unnecessary. We just type in "maple forearm, 4 points, ivory diamonds, linen wrap, 19 oz, high gloss finish" and the CNC machine spits out the finished product. Or so they'd have you believe. Idiots. CNC is a wonderful tool. But that's all it is - another tool that relies upon the skill & knowledge of the operator to do its job.
Home Brew Headstock
Attached are a few pics showing the headstock I built for my tip & ferrule
lathe. The base was a 70 year old South Bend lathe. I started with a
framework with split bearing caps that maintained the same height as the
original (so the tailstock remained on center). I tied in the frame ends with
cross pieces that gave plenty of clearance for pulleys, since I wasn't real sure
what size pulleys I'd run. Then I made a spindle with a 1" bore that fit the
bearings I used. Both ends of the spindle are threaded but the rear has left
hand threads so it won't unscrew while in use. Set screws are also used
for insurance. Adapters were made to mount the chucks to the spindle...again,
the rear has left hand threads. The adapters allow the chucks to be indicated
in so the chucks run dead true. Since they are never removed, they maintain
their accuracy. The chucks were bored out to .900 diameter and a hinged
sheet metal guard was added. Note also the movable 1" travel indicator and
large cross feed dial that makes precise reading of increments easy.
While we're at it...this is how the rear chuck is mounted on my 13x40 lathe.
Again, it is threaded onto the spindle but this time I had to use the original
right hand threads. I use 3 set screws to lock the chuck adapter into
location. The set screw holes are drilled & tapped completely through the
spindle so the adapter can not unscrew during use. The chuck is an
adjustable Buck Chuck so it was easy to indicate it in.
More to come! What would you like to see? Email me with your requests.
