(and other construction techniques)

I've always liked the feel you get with a wood to wood joint.  It just feels better to me than anything using a brass insert in the shaft.  Recently, there have been many new thread forms introduced for use in joints: Uni-Loc's Radial & Quick Release, the copycat radials that are just slightly different, 3/8-11, 3/8-11 modified (smaller OD), 3/8-11.5, 3/8-14, etc, etc, etc.  Many of these have merit because they increase the contact between the screw & the wood.  This is good.  But then all your old shafts are no longer compatible with your new joint.  I was reluctant to make the switch to one of the "high contact" thread forms because I hated to leave my customers stuck with old shafts that were incompatible with new purchases from me.  Fortunately, I found another option: a modified 3/8-10 (Flat Bottom) that gives me the high contact & is compatible (with a 2 minute fix) with all my old shafts.  Predator & OB 3/8-10 shafts can also be easily tweaked for use with the 3/8-10 Flat Bottom screw.

Click on the thumbnail above to see the differences between the standard 3/8-10 joint screw and the 3/8-10 FB screw I am phasing in.  There is a much nicer fit between the wood & the screw - almost 100% contact.  This is sure to contribute to a better feel & a much longer life for that snug fit.  As stated earlier, if you have spare shafts that are the old style, it's not a problem as they can easily be modified to fit the new pin.  It's a 2 minute fix.  Another benefit is that the new shafts will work on your old style 3/8-10 joints, too.  They will, however, be slightly looser than your originals.  This is actually the fault of the standard 3/8-10 screws available today.  These screws are typically .003" - .005" undersize on the pitch diameter and that is what accounts for the looseness.

Anyway, I'm happy to say that initial trials with the pin have been very successful.  The fit is great, the hit is great & modifying old shafts to fit has been proven to be quick & effective.  The new joint will be available - actually, it will probably become my standard thread - beginning in 2007.  

One change I will be incorporating into my "style" of cue is this:  due to the increased weight of the FB pin, I will not use a SS collar when using the SS FB pin.  Instead, I will use linen phenolic or ivory or even select hardwoods.  If you desire a SS collar, then I will use the anodized aluminum pin to keep the balance where most people seem to prefer it.

Comparative weights of different pins
(actual weights, not based on some chart)

Ferrules
Different styles & construction techniques

There are many styles of ferrules in use today.  The common variables are:

The diameter of the tenon
Whether the tenon is threaded or not
Whether the ferrule is capped or not

  The simplest option is a sleeve type ferrule that slips over a tenon and is retained by wood glue or epoxy.  The size of the tenon can vary for a few reasons.  Usually it will depend on the strength of the ferrule material used but some cuemakers feel a larger tenon gives a better hit since you have a simpler, purer connection.  You're making a better, more direct contact with the shaft, so to speak.  Warning: many of the cheap (and not so cheap) imports use a sleeve type ferrule made of an "economical polymer material" that doesn't bond well with any glues.  They use ribbing on the inside of the ferrule to provide a mechanical bond to the tenon.  It is sometimes difficult to get tips to adhere to these cues.  The only foolproof solution is to replace the ferrule with something worthwhile.

Then, there are those who feel that the tenon should be threaded in order to incorporate a mechanical bond to help retain the ferrule while at the same time, providing additional surface area for your glues.  The standard threaded ferrules commercially available are tapped 5/16-18.  Some feel this size "thins" the tenon too much, weakening it at the base of the tenon.  Others choose to use different thread sizes & machine their ferrules to their own specs.  Another option is to add a locating diameter at the base of the tenon.  This will serve the dual purpose of adding strength while keeping the ferrule accurately centered on the tenon.  

I feel I have to comment on the "compression dies" being sold to make tenon threading easier.  Personally, I don't like them.  While they give the illusion of a thread, you actually have less than 40% of a full thread.  Think about it - the tap drill size for the ferrule is .257 while the tenon diameter prior to running the die over it is .280.  That means you're forming a thread just over .011" high per side.  That's your thread??  There's enough there to allow you to thread on the ferrule & you can even tighten it up against the shoulder a bit.  But you still have a tremendous volume of empty space that must be filled with glue.  And this sloppy, glue-filled reservoir has to repeatedly absorb the most brutal shocks your cue will experience.  That can't be the best way to do this.  'Nuff said. 

Both styles described above can be capped or not.  It might depend on the material being used or simply the preference of the cuemaker.  On one hand, a capped ferrule is unquestionably stronger & provides a consistent surface upon which to glue your tip but, on the other hand, it introduces the opportunity for air pockets which may affect the sound of the hit (although it won't affect how it plays).  The uncapped ferrule offers the most direct connection to the shaft but it is more likely to crack or split than a capped ferrule.  This is where the tenon diameter comes into play, forcing a compromise between tenon diameter (solid hit) vs. ferrule wall thickness (resistance to cracking).  But then, maybe if it were threaded, the additional glue surface will prevent it from cracking. But then...and on and on.  

Now you can see why there is no consensus as to what is the best design.  As a result, I am constantly trying new materials as they become available & as others become obsolete.  Some play well but get dirty easily.  Some are too hard and squirt more than others.  Some are too soft - they play well but scratch, dent and crack too easily.  Some don't like wood glue.  Etc, etc.

Cross-Section of a well installed ferrule


This shows only one method but it incorporates all the best ideas (in my opinion).
Pay particular attention to how the wooden threads fill the "V" of the tapped hole.
It won't look like this with a compression die.  See HERE for my method of threading a tenon.

Another thing to consider...
is ferrule weight as it relates to a shaft's tendency to squirt.
Maple is given a value of "1" and this chart shows how a few common ferrule materials compare.
Remember, a higher number (heavier material) will have a tendency squirt more than a lower number (lighter weight).

These numbers are based on my own measurements.
  I made samples of each material that were exactly the same diameter & length.
  Then I weighed them to the nearest tenth of a gram and calculated their weights relative to maple.
For example, if the maple sample weighed 6.2g and Aegis2 weighed 12.4g, Aegis2 was given a value of 2.
Your mileage may vary.  But not by much.

The weight of maple shafts can vary considerably.  Most people prefer a shaft with high grain count & dense wood - usually heavier, rather than lighter.  This might not be the best choice to make if low squirt is your priority.  The dense shaft might sound & feel better but...

Don't you just love it when something new comes along to confuse you?

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